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Letters From Iraq

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October 5, 2003
Dear Jo, Family and Others,
Greetings from Hawler. This is the Kurdish name for Arbil, the name that they seem to prefer.
We made a "two hour" trip yesterday evening in about four hours by way of Kirkuk. Not that we didn't travel speedily but I just think our driver was overly optimistic. We didn't get started until about three P.M. in that the Minister of Health in the Sulaimania region of Iraq- Kurdistan wanted to meet us and then have his deputy and a gentleman in charge of Health Education on the Kurdish TV have lunch with us. It was at a lovely restaurant with draped windows, old paintings and fancy things in general. We had a good time talking. I especially wanted to find out about the wildlife in the mountains around that area. There are Ibex, mountain goats, wild pigs, bears, and some form of a "tiger" according to him.
The countryside south of Sulaimania is rolling and looks like it is largely composed of sand-dunes that now are covered with grass that sheep and goats can graze. For a long ways it looks much like the badlands of our northern mountain states. The road gradually wound downward through this country to Kirkuk with S. being at about 6,000 to 7,000 feet and K. much lower. Kirkuk is in one of the major oil producing areas of Iraq and we not only saw many oil derricks but areas of burning natural gas and possibly oil. It is in a border area disputed for years between Saddam and the Kurds and is still considered "unsafe." We had avoided the area in going to Sulaimania because of the death and injury of Americans there recently. The day before we returned there had also been a bombing of some sort. We skirted the edge of the city, taking a very rough shortcut including a riverbed with a little running water. The bridge had been blown up. Pillboxes built by Saddam stretched for many miles as we traveled westward. We passed many destroyed Kurdish villages, some with rebuilding taking place. In one area there were four huge prisons, each two stories tall with rounded turrents at each corner possibly 50 meters or more across. They were all exactly the same architecturally. They also had been places used by Saddam's forces. According to the Kurds, one can only imagine the horror that went on in these.
Our drivers had been away from home for about nine days and their driving was exceedingly aggressive. I am amazed at how well they can avoid bad outcomes. We finally, about four hours after starting out, reached Hawler and the Chwar Chra Hotel where we are staying.
Today we finished the first part of our teacher trainer sessions, for those who will in turn be teaching others in ACLS. It consists primarily of care of equipment, such as the mannequins (?sp), cardiovertors, etc. and having them teach some classes and giving our input. The ones in Sulaimania did superbly. The doctors here have many hopes and dreams for the future and we look forward to sharing these with Ron, Joe and Bas at NWMTI to see what can be implemented.
We have been careful to not make promises other than being an advocacy for them back in America.
Yesterday I met a man in Sulaimania, Abdulwahab Alkebsi, who is a resident of Maryland and works in Wash. DC for the "National Endowment for Democracy." It is apparently a nonpartisan group whose aim is to "support freedom around the world" by giving small grants to indigenous organizations working in this area. They avoid making them dependent but much like "Right Sharing" attempt to help them be self sufficient. He is the program director for North Africa and the Middle East. He loves his work. Projects here are such things as educating women and lifting their feelings of worth.
We hope to get permission to visit a local Kurdish prison tomorrow. Valerie has worked in the prison system of CA extensively and really wants this to happen. We have encountered some reluctance. So we shall see.
Well our classes will soon end and and we hope to journey towards Istanbul and then home about the fifteenth.
My love to you , Ken

Oct. 7, 2003
Dear Jo, We had our last classes today with seven grateful students who we hope will in turn be instructors. I am going with Valarie to a Kurdish jail this afternoon. She is an aggressive sort and having worked in jails a lot would like to see everything. But I believe we will only be allowed to see the health center. I think the realities of such in this part of the world aren't very happy.
Yesterday P.M. Delower brought his two little daughters to the lawn area by the hotel. What pretty little girls they are. One is very quiet and the older 4 y.o. is quite lively, talkative, waving her hands, smiling and breaking into laughter. What sweeties. But as I think of their future I feel sad. In this culture women are largely confined to their homes here. Delower's wife was not allowed to come to greet us and in fact Julio says that in the six years they have worked for NWMTI that he has never been able to see Delower's wife. I think the work of people like Peter is hugely important. Of course there are some women who seem to have freedom but most don't, especially in some areas.
Ken G. and Matt T. have gone to Ninevah, (Mosul), to take a few picture of the old wall etc. There is considerable fear among our Kurdish workers re, going there so some of us stayed behind. A smaller group will also be less conspicuous. We will be packing bags tomorrow and starting the long trip to the border and hopefully into Turkey on the following day.
Much love, Ken

Editors note: Ken arrived in Dyarbarker, Turkey October 10th on his way to Istanbul. From there he flew home and arrived in Portland, OR. October 15th. He will be in Klamath Falls on the 16th, we welcome him home!

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