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Journey to Afghanistan - Chapter 5, page 14

A Day of Rest in Afghanistan - by Ken Magee

Michael informed us that the commander we would be seeing was one of General Dostum's main sub-generals. As we stopped nearby a handsome guard came to meet us. Contrary to the soldiers at the main gate with their varied combinations of ill fitting military and civilian garb, he appeared trim with camouflage hat and trousers, neat boots and a heavy greenish-blue parka that extended to his thighs. His face bore thick black eyebrows, a trim mustache and was creased with a pleasant and confident smile. Under his left arm he carried a large caliber machine gun with its tripod. He and Michael exchanged greetings and we were told that the General was waiting to see us. With this we dismounted and were ushered through a shiny new wooden door.

The reception room gave no hint of the remnants of terror that lay outside the door. Michael and the General met with greetings, war embraces and kisses to the side of each others face. Two Afghan aides ere present also and we greeted the General and them with "Salaam a Lakum," our right hands over our hearts and firm handshakes. The General was a squarely built man who looked neat in his light brown military garb with red epaulets. His smile was warm, almost shy.

As we were being seated on comfortable couches I glanced around the room. Freshly painted on one wall was a large mural showing mountains with rugged crags and slopes with areas of trees both near and distant. A beautiful blue river flowed through the valley. Wildflowers adorned some hillsides.

Aides served us tea and candies while Michael and the General conversed. As their dialogue was interpreted we learned more of the terrible fight. The General had been on the fortress wall near the present breach. A stray American bomb, the only one that had gone awry, hit near him destroying a tank of the Northern Alliance with its five occupants. He related that since that blast he had been unable to hear well. We offered to look in his ears and Dr. bill took my otoscope and found what we expected - both ear drums were perforated.

We were offered a guided tour of the destruction. Several soldiers accompanied us. The pathway lead past the remnants of a rose garden which showed attempts at restoration with evidence of some recent trimming and cultivation, and then between two large buildings, partially demolished. Opening into a yard the size of two football fields we saw almost total destruction. Historically hundreds of captured Taliban were brought here as the Northern Alliance with support from American warplanes rapidly regained control of Northern Afghanistan. Apparently many prisoners had hidden weaponry and revolted against their captors soon after their arrival. The remnants of the ordnance depot they had captured was just to our right. Ahead about forty meters a few walls and rooms of the building where John Walker Lindh had hidden were left standing. To the left was a long row of low buildings that had stabled horses for the fortress. It was now empty.

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