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Journey to Afghanistan - page 2

Day One, by Ken Magee

Our Stewardess on this central Asian airline didn't tell us to fasten our seat belts or put our seat backs in the full-upright position. It wouldn't be possible. Many of the belts would not work and the seat backs were in various postures of permanent recline in this small and old Soviet made airliner.

Three years earlier I would never have believed that I'd be on the other side of the world flying with Northwest Medical Teams to Afghanistan. Going with medical teams to disasters in other parts of the world and then the events of Sept.11th changed my thinking. Our intent was to work with the medical problems of a huge refugee population. They are realistically a people who have suffered greatly, impacted by over twenty years of bloody wars.

The loud throb of the plane's ancient prop engines didn't drown out the intense questions I felt inwardly. Would the people of Afghanistan hate me? Would war break out again while I was there? Would I be able truly to help sick and starving people? What about diseases I'd seen little of in my own country? Would I be able to stay healthy? Already I surely missed my wife Lots of emotions!

I was glad for my traveling partners: Tom, a very capable emergency care physician; he would know what to do when we encountered a person who had just lost his or her leg in a land-mine explosion.
Michael, an astute diplomat from South Africa with many connections and ten years of experience in this part of the world; he'd know what to do in politically tense situations.

After flying over rugged, snow clad mountains, our landing at the border town of Termez was bumpy but safe. Michael informed up we would go to a house in Termez and wait for further permission to cross the Bridge of Peace which spans the Amu Darya, a large river marking the border between Uzbekistan and Afghanistan The bridge had been closed for several years and had just recently reopened for the passage of food and a small number of humanitarian workers into Afghanistan.

Termez appeared as a well-kept city and I especially noted the beautiful clothes of the women. Even those working in a crew along the highway had full-length dresses with the most colorful and flowery designs. We noted some areas of new building construction, restaurants and shops that appeared successful, small but neat yards, and generally a lack of trash.

We went to the home of a well known central Asian trader. His family had connections, including a brother in the capital of Uzbekistan and another who was a prominent General in the Northern Alliance of Afghanistan. Our entry into Afghanistan was only possible with their help. Numerous men who worked for this family sat around the room. The mood seemed both upbeat but tense. The job of Tom, Michael and myself was to drink tea, eat little candies and wait.

With some personal relief I accepted the request to listen in private to one of the men at at this trading station. He'd been having chest pain with typical anginal radiations, seemingly worsening for some time. His blood pressure was high and indeed his stress level also. I shared some of my own personal blood pressure medicine with him, thankful for having it. Concern for his future prompted my giving him added advice, which we in this business are always prone to offer.

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