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Journey to Afghanistan

DOWNTOWN MAZAR-I-SHARIF- Chapter 8, Page 21

We did see several "antique" rugs. Our understanding was broadened by observing some resourceful rug shops actually antiquing their rugs in the streets with the help of passing traffic; camels, taxis and burros.

Mixed with the shops were many other enterprising people including eager shoeshine boys and people selling varied products including a wheelbarrow full of live chickens with tied legs. Upon entering some small shops we took off our shoes. At one rug shop an eager lad quickly grabbed my shoes and began to shine them. There was no doubt of the need on both our parts, so I was glad to pay him well. Actually he accomplished a fine shine and it lasted several weeks.

We frequented a wholesale pharmacy with our Afghan physician friends. It was small but had shelves crowded with a large variety of medications. Prices were much less than here at home. We had to rely on our friends' advice as to which products would less likely be adulterated with starch or sugar. In their opinion some were suspect. During our time of work in the refugee camps and later in village clinics, we used huge amounts of medications. Gradually we planned ahead better and avoided the bind of an inadequate supply. Major groups included antibiotics, medications for gastrointestinal problems, and those for cardiovascular ailments. Even though depression (sadness) was exceedingly common e generally avoided antidepressant or tranquilizer type drugs.

On one pharmacy visit a lady entered behind us shouting and waving her arms. Her clothes were torn and filthy and she had no covering over her deeply creased, angry appearing face. The shop keeper gave her a small amount of paper money and waved her away, explaining to us that she was a common trouble maker and it was the only way to get rid of her.

In spite of some trepidation and uncertainties, I and the others with our medical team were treated with courtesy and friendliness. Shopkeepers were generally eager to help. I never felt directly threatened and appreciated very much the gracious ways of the Afghan people.

Often, in traveling those streets, I was amazed by the sights, sounds and smells and thought, "I would love for my wife and many people back home to see this astounding mixture of ancient and modern ways, of peace and distress."

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